When he was compiling his epic Buildings of England series, Nikolaus Pevsner called in at Honiton while researching the South Devon volume. “The town is all one long High Street, quite exceptionally unspoilt,” he noted approvingly. It is almost 60 years since the great chronicler of English architecture visited this lovely corner of England — but what would he make of it now?
Well, no doubt he would be offended by some aspects of 21st-century town planning, but on balance I think the old boy would still find much over which to enthuse. Honiton has what must be one of the longest high streets in Britain, and it remains delightfully easy on the eye. Look up from one end and you get a tantalising glimpse of the abundantly green hills that surround the town; look back down from the other and you cannot fail to be impressed by the Georgian splendour of the buildings.
This largely unspoilt market town is surrounded by beautiful countryside, it’s close to the sea and has a magnificent hotel and an array of other attractions within a short drive.
Given Honiton’s fine architecture, it is perhaps unsurprising that antiques are a big part of the town’s attraction. Our guide at tourist information warns us that the impact of eBay and — something of a paradox, this — the popularity of TV antiques programmes has reduced the number of shops from a high of about 30. Still, if this represents a slump in the Honiton antiques business, the casual browser would never notice.
There are plenty of shops running the length of the high street and, pleasingly, a good variety, too, from those offering quality furniture to those trading in slightly more esoteric items. Junk to some, endlessly fascinating collectibles to others. And, glory be, there are still two excellent second-hand bookshops.
The product most readily associated with the town is lace, although it was never made here but was given the name “Honiton lace” because it was sent to London from the town after being produced elsewhere in East Devon.
The history of this once thriving trade and a fine collection of examples can be seen in Allhallows Museum, or at least it can if you visit between Easter and the end of October, when the building is open. Doubtless the volunteers who run the museum do a fine job, but it seems a shame for Honiton’s tourist potential that it cannot be open through the winter months.
When you have decided that you never again want to see another Victorian sideboard, it’s time to sample the joys of the surrounding countryside. This is prime country for walkers, and you can choose from scores of routes in the lovely, gently rolling Devon landscape or go a little farther afield and tackle a section of the coastal footpath.
Spring comes early here, so if you feel as if you have been stuck in never-ending winter, Honiton may provide the therapy you need.
NEED TO KNOW
Bed down at . . . Combe House, at Gittisham, just outside Honiton, is a Grade I listed Elizabethan manor in a setting that makes you sigh every time you glance out of a window. The owners, Ruth and Ken Hunt, have devoted years of work to ensuring that their hotel offers a genuine English country-house experience. The staff are friendly and attentive but unobtrusive, and the food is uniformly excellent, with much of the produce coming from the kitchen garden. Rooms from £199 a night, including breakfast (01404 540400, combehousedevon.com).
Chow down at . . . The Railway used to be the sort of rundown pub that you often find near stations. Not any more. Restored and turned into a vibrant restaurant, it delivers great food at excellent value. Scallops served with black pudding and a green salad was a highlight and the pizzas earned rave reviews. A three-course meal costs about £25pp, without wine.
