Westaurant

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The Railway, Honiton

 

Remember all those idealised American sitcoms like Cheers and Friends where pals hang out in a great bar or cafe? They don’t exist in real life, right? Well, I’m not so sure, because I think we’ve got a genuine neighbourhood hangout right here in the south-west, the only difference being that The Railway serves immaculate food in a chic gastropub setting and you’ll never find it half-empty like Central Perk or Cheers. Indeed, these days you’ll be lucky to find space at the weekends because I’ve seen the place heaving on a wet Saturday night in the middle of February – all thanks to its new status as Les Routiers Dining Pub of the Year 2010/2011 and a listing in the Michelin Red Guide. Not so long ago I would have called The Railway a ‘hidden gem’, but today it’s too well-known.

What makes it tick
Yet The Railway is not all about awards. It’s been doing the same thing ever since it opened – serving great food at reasonable prices. Tucked away in a back street, it offers that rare combination in Britain – excellent food served in an unpretentious local setting. Such neighbourhood eateries are more common on the Continent, so it’s no surprise to learn that owner and head chef Jean-Baptiste (Jean) Sancey hails from the Lorraine in France – although both his parents originated from Italy – while his wife Melanie (Mel), who runs front of house and creates the delicious puddings, is a Devon girl. A nod here too to chef Mark who steers the ship with aplomb even when the boss is not around.

 

Originally built to serve the navvies working on the line to Exeter, the establishment has a colourful past, having survived a major fire and, reputedly, also hosting a brothel upstairs at one time! Today, it’s full of atmosphere. It’s not one of those deathly hushed temples to food, but a cheery place for a relaxed lunch or an evening out. Some nights it can be positively hopping – this place has got soul!

Style
On offer is the best seasonal produce from the South-West – with daily fish deliveries from Brixham market – presented in a rustic but clean style alongside homemade pizzas which you can also take away. Think modern British with a Mediterranean twist: above all, this food is about taste.

 

Starters
Starters might be ‘nose to tail terrine’ – an old fashioned terrine of ham hock, cured pig tongue and ‘proper’ corned beef and flat parsley served with an egg and cornichon mayonnaise or potted Devon brown crab served with homemade Sardinian bread and organic leaves.

I reckon you can always tell an establishment by the quality of its vegetarian offerings: at The Railway they are not afterthoughts but delicious dishes in their own right, which is why I often opt for zucchini fritti (courgette, feta cheese and fresh garden mint fritters served with Lebanese houmous and Sicilian lemon) when it’s on the menu.

Bread
Inevitably, there will be fresh water and some of The Railway’s delicious homemade bread on the table – it varies all the time and Jean is a bit of a bread-making obsessive – along with olive oil and balsamic vinegar for dipping.

With such a focus on baking, it’s no wonder then that the pizzas are always a good option – hand-rolled and authentic – with a variety of traditional and more unusual toppings.

Main courses
In terms of more substantial main courses, I’ve recently enjoyed the Branscombe crab chowder with smoked haddock, squid, River Exe mussels and coley. This is a heart-and-soul-warming hot pot with potatoes, leeks, and Arborio rice in a crab broth.

For the traditionalists, the 28-day aged sirloin immaculately cooked on the char-grill, served with real Béarnaise sauce, proper crisp-on-the-outside, melt-in-the-mouth chips and dressed leaves from Darts Farm is a crowd-pleasing classic.

Kids
My daughter Ellie is a big fan of their meatballs or risotto when available but has come to understand that she’ll enjoy most things put in front of her at The Railway

 

Desserts
To finish, there are plenty of classics on offer, like crème brûlée scented with Mexican vanilla and served with Italian pistachio biscuit – I’m on a mission to find the world’s perfect crème brûlée – but my own favourite is Mel’s warm Sicilian lemon tart served with ‘proper Italian ice-cream’. I personally would avoid the bourbon vanilla ice-cream with extra virgin olive oil and Cornish organic sea salt: it’s more of a talking point, so I guess you either love it or hate it!

The cheese board changes regularly. Recently, the restaurant was presenting a selection of Italian cheese from northern Lombardy.

Drinks
The wine list is affordable and offers a nice selection by the bottle and glass. Being a pub there’s also a good range of local real ales and quality beers and soft drinks. Reassuringly, you can enjoy a proper coffee here along with various teas and herbal infusions.

So are there any problems with the place? I’ve certainly never had a ‘bad’ meal at The Railway though I have known the kitchen get a little over-stretched when packed out – I remember a New Year’s Eve a couple of years ago. However, such occasions are so few and far between that they can be discounted.

With its constantly changing seasonal menu of fresh, local ingredients and light, modern and stylish cuisine, The Railway is going to be winning a whole host of new friends over the coming months, which is why it’s fortunate that there is an extension planned in the not too distant future.

Verdict
As you’ll gather from my review, I really like The Railway. It’s my local restaurant where I know I can reliably go to find good, tasty food presented stylishly and at a reasonable price (£30 a head for three courses with drinks if you choose carefully) and a friendly welcome, so I’m going to use it as my benchmark for later reviews. Accordingly, I’m awarding it ? ? ?.

The Railway, Queen Street, Honiton, EX14 1HE.
Tel: 01404 47976. www.therailwayhoniton.co.uk

Sample menu

Starters
Twice-baked Marksbury cheddar soufflé with braised leeks, a little cream, and served with a winter salad of root vegetables, lemon and mint, roasted pecans, and cider and balsamic vinegar dressing. £5.95.

Carpaccio of local venison – thinly sliced fillet of local roe venison, char-grilled and crusted with thyme and cracked black pepper, dressed with rocket, parmesan and chilli oil. £5.95.

Mains
Pollo con funghi – char-grilled chicken breast with a pino grigio, roasted cherry tomato, pancetta and porcini mushroom sauce, sliced and pan-fried rosemary new potatoes, and rocket and parmesan salad.  £12.95

A proper fritto misto – trio of crispy fried fresh fish (using only sustainable fish) served with zesty Italian tartare sauce, Rocket salad in balsamic, proper chips and the best of organic lemons. 12.95.

Desserts
Warm English apple cake with cinnamon ice-cream. £4.95.

Indulgent dark chocolate tart with the shortest of hazelnut pastries and a hazelnut ice-cream. £4.95.

Grading system
?  Something about the place I like.
? ?  Well above average.
? ? ?  A personal favourite.
? ? ? ?  I’m in love with the chef (platonically of course).
? ? ? ? ?  Food of the gods.